Josie : Attention in Archery

Hi all, I'm on a slightly different tack this week and thought you might like to come along for the ride. I've been musing on concentration recently in an attempt to improve my shooting technique. In the course of my research I’ve come across this issue in many archery books and articles I’ve read. It may sound like something that won’t become relevant until later on, but believe me: it’s as important to the absolute beginner as the seasoned pro. Different people approach it in different ways. This is my take on it.

Attention in Archery

Attention moves around the visual field independent of the direction of gaze. This is the "attentional spotlight", utilising peripheral vision as almost a second set of eyes. We use this in everyday life all the time, in general totally unaware of the split connection. Even if we find ourselves looking directly at something we don't expect to see, we're no more likely to notice it than if it appears at the edge of our vision. Hence, attention roves across the field of vision like a spotlight, picking out points of interest that are not necessarily where our eyes are pointed. It also acts as a kind of built-in risk assessment, constantly scanning the environment and submitting information to the subconscious which informs motor function.

Attentional spotlight has a major role to play in target archery. Have you ever got to full draw, focused on the gold, held on just a second or so too long and found your arrow tip wanders away from the centre? Attention is critical for this. It also works the other way: taking too little time may allow your eyes to point the right way but is by no means a guarantee of attention.

It's why I find rhythm so important for shooting: I know, more-or-less, how long I can keep my attention fixed to my gaze and I know how long it takes me to get to full draw and do the necessary pre-flight checks. The tricky bit is marrying the two to create the perfect shooting conditions. Working to a rhythm or counting the draw can help you become more consistent. If you try this then remember also to develop a breathing pattern that is the same every time you draw. (While we’re on that tangent, try to avoid taking a deep breath while drawing, especially when at full draw; it causes too much upper body movement and it’s harder to hold position when the lungs are either completely full or completely empty. Try various breathing patterns and see what works for you.)

Attention can take up to half a second to divert, which is a long time in psychological terms. On some days you may find your attention just won't stay. This can make shooting extremely difficult and frustrating. It’s up to you whether you stick with it on that day. There are mental techniques that are said to be able to help with this which take time and training to master (I’ll be coming back to this another time). Despite how long it may take I believe it's not only worthwhile but crucial if you wish to discover how good an archer you can be. 

It is possible to shoot fairly well without getting to grips with attention-mapping, just don't expect top-quality scores! If you are willing to invest the time it will add an extra facet to your ability that will be useful in everyday life too.

There's another side to the same coin known as 'ironic processes of control'. Sometimes too  much attention is just as detrimental as too little. Imagine you've just shot two 10s. You're on course for an excellent score and mentally rehearsing the final shot as you prepare to draw. Concentrate, release and - it's a 6. Been there? I have. This is a prime example of the ironic processes of control. You over-think the shot in anticipation, moving what would usually be a subconscious process into the conscious mind. The conscious mind cannot treat the process in a likewise fashion and makes subtle alterations, enough to throw the shot off completely. There are ways of dealing with this, though none are foolproof. The best way I've found is to gain control over your conscious mind, push its focus to one side and let the subconscious regain control of the shot. For example, focus your attention somewhere closer to home: focus on your grip on the bow, keeping your bow shoulder down, what you're planning to do after the session or what's for dinner. Don't expect miracles, but you'll improve your chances of a great shot.

I took some advice from a friend about focus. He shoots high-powered rifles over long distance at targets the size of a 50p piece so focus is a major factor. He told me that when he shoots he gets into position, sights, then drifts his eyes and his attention away from the target for just a moment before snapping them both back to the target and squeezing the trigger. This overcomes the split-attention issue by refreshing the mind just enough (and releasing any built-up tension at the same time). I've tried this myself at the club with good results so I'd recommend trying it. Just don't try shifting attention too far or the conscious mind will move your arm. I drift my focus down to the border between black and white on the target face. Down works best for me as I find it doesn’t lead me to move my physical position. Make sure you drift your eyes only, don’t move your head.

I should point out that even if you follow this to the letter there's no guarantee that every shot will be perfect. There are so many factors to consider and I don't even know them all yet!

What are your thoughts?

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Josie : how to build / fletch arrows

Today I'm taking you through the first of this year's major archery purchases: new arrows.

A lovely line of lovely shiny points

The arrow choice was made on advice - taking the jump from aluminium X7 to carbon is a significant step that can be costly. Considering the likelihood of upgrading limbs one can't expect arrows to be well-matched to increased poundage, so it made sense not to spend a small fortune on arrows I may not use for that long. Luckily, Roger was on hand to recommend Carbon Express as an excellent alternative to Easton. I went with Medallion XR on the basis that the shafts and components came to under £140 for a dozen arrows, so not too big a deal if I need to upgrade them in six months. 

It's the first time I've assembled arrows so there was a bit of a learning curve. Luckily, several experienced archers are a short hop away on email so advice was never far away.

Let's get on with assembly. First, I cleaned the shafts and inside each end with isopropyl alcohol. Then I fitted the nock inserts. I used Dragon Spit for these, seemed like a reasonable idea. Before gluing, make sure all the shafts are the same way around or the writing will go different ways on your arrows! 

Newly fletched arrows

Next came the points. When it comes to points, there are many different fixatives recommended and it's a little confusing. Would hot-melt be better than epoxy? Do you need to use an "archery" glue or will a bog-standard hardware glue work just as well? Can you get away with super glue or another cyanoacrylate instead? I couldn't decide so I asked Roger - given his experience building and mending arrows it's fairly safe to assume he knows what he's talking about. He recommended hot-melt so I went with that.

The points themselves were quite easy to fit, but I did find a couple of snags which can be avoided. Firstly, when working with hot-melt you have only the "hot" window in which to work with the glue before it goes off. As such, putting it on to a cold tip will decrease working time significantly. I heated the tips with a heat-gun until they were quite warm but still able to be held. With my first point, I inserted it too slowly and the tip got stuck halfway, so I heated the shaft gently for a couple of seconds until the glue had softened enough to push the rest of the point in, which worked perfectly.

Now for the pin-nocks. These aren’t really any harder to assemble than G-nocks (which I have on my X7s), but the metal pin insert serves the added purpose of protecting the end of the shaft from direct hits. The nocks push onto the nock pin but are not glued: it's a tight fit when they're on so they don't need to be. I like to get things just right, so I positioned the nocks so that the arrow text is perfectly aligned down the side of the arrow when the arrow is at full draw. Makes it look so much more professional… 

The trickiest part (for me) was fletching. I think I used too much glue on this first batch – getting the exact right amount eluded me. Too much is a bit messy and too little will not stick well enough. For reference, a blob of glue at each end of the vane will also help stop the vanes coming detached at the weakest part. It was the first time using my fletching jig so I had to set the alignment for the arrows I was fletching, but this was straightforward and didn't take more than a minute or so. Fletching a dozen arrows takes time - every vane has to be glued, positioned and allowed to set for a couple of minutes before then removing the clamp and rotating to the next position. It's very "on-off" work so good to do whilst doing something else (cooking, watching TV or even at your desk at work if you have a forgiving boss!). 

This is my first arrow build so I don't yet know how they will shoot. I'll add a comment when I've tested them! Let’s hope they don’t disintegrate on impact…

I’m sure there are some other tips which will help fletching/arrow building, would anybody like to add any?

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Josie: buying a bow

Buying a bow can seem like a daunting venture, but it really needn't be if you follow a few simple rules.

[Please do look at comments for this post as this is a big topic with a lot of different opinions. This is Josie's opinion and I've put (some of) my opinion in the comments - Heidi]

1. Know Your Budget

Obvious, perhaps, but the first key point and probably the most important. There's little point lusting after the W&W Inno CXT if it's way out of your price range. Don't sell yourself short either: out of the whole setup, your limbs and riser are the thing to spend the most money on and really get right. Peripherals can be upgraded much more easily at a later date. The start-up gear will not be cheap. If you can, save up for a little while beforehand to give yourself a more generous budget. It will make a big difference in the long run.

2. Make a Kit List

Josie's bow! 

The first purchase will be complicated and it’s easy to forget little things that may not seem important. For instance, if you’re buying a bow then you will need a stringer, an arm guard, a finger tab and bow stand. None of these require massive investment, the most basic models will do (though the finger tab perhaps not so – ask for advice on tabs and try some at the club. They need to feel right!). Make savings where you can. You don't "need" to buy an expensive sight, clicker and long rod immediately. You can also get away without a quiver for a while; there are floor quivers at the club you can use. A bow square is a very useful thing to have (again, doesn’t have to be an expensive one). If you buy your bow at a shop they will probably fit the nock points for you. If they don’t, you’ll need one of these! Remember you’ll need nock points as well. Check that your riser comes with the necessary allen keys or you may need to invest in a set – hardware shops are often cheapest but check they include the right sizes for your bow.

3. Try Before You Buy.

This is vital. Every bow acts differently with different archers and it's crucial to buy a bow that matches you. A well-matched bow is a seamless extension of the archer. As your first bow, anything other than a wooden bow will probably feel weird, but some will feel better than others. The right bow should feel comfortable in your hand and quite strong: if it’s too easy to draw you will grow out of it very quickly, too heavy and you won’t be able to shoot with it. Try some of the bows on the shooting line first of all (ask beforehand of course!), then it’s a good idea to visit an archery supplier. There are several archery suppliers around the UK, though none in central London. Familiarise yourself with what stock they carry and have an idea what you would like to try. Before you visit, give them a call to check they have what you want to try in stock! If they are low on stock they will likely hold something back for you. Check when would be a good time to visit - if you turn up unannounced at a busy time they may not have enough staff free to give you the time and attention you need. Put half a day aside for this: it will be time well spent - this is the first step along the archery trail so it should be sound. A good bow will make a massive difference not only to your shooting but also your confidence. It could be the difference between deciding it isn't really for you or becoming an archery lifer. I'd advise against buying second-hand from eBay unless you're absolutely sure what you're getting. If something is disturbingly cheap there's usually a reason for it!

4. Get The Right Arrows

Get properly measured for arrows and match them to your bow poundage and draw length. If you buy your bow at a shop they'll probably go through this anyway. Non-matched arrows will not fly properly and will knock your confidence. Get good arrows but be aware you will probably need to upgrade them when you increase poundage which could be as little as 6 months down the line. It isn’t worth spending £300+ on X10 ProTours unless you really have a limitless budget! The 2020 coaches will offer advice if you’re not sure what would be best.

5. Don’t Forget The Case!

If you shoot barebow and don’t want to carry much around you can probably get away with a lightweight carry case. It’s a good place to start if your kit list is small and it won’t set you back much. If your budget is more generous and you plan to get lots of bits for your bow, have a look at what else is available. Good-quality archery backpacks are expensive so have a look on eBay in case there’s a bargain to be found. Sometimes it can be possible to use a non-archery bag, but bear in mind that these are not tailor-made for a bow so will not provide all the support (and pockets) you need. Your case offers storage, protection and portability: a full archery starter kit will cost a fair bit so show it the respect it deserves and keep it safe.

Well, I think that about covers it for now. Happy bow hunting!

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Josie : Archery as meditation

I'm exploring the meditative qualities of archery at the moment as a method of channeling focus and maximising potential (and also because it makes shooting a wonderfully stress-free pastime after the working week). I find it takes shooting to a new level that removes the frustration and enhances the enjoyment. This extract is based around one work: Paulo Coehlo's "The Way of The Bow". I would strongly recommend finding and reading it. The book was written for dissemination on the internet and is available as a free (legit) download.

Let’s start with the bow: 

"[The bow] is a prolongation of the hand and desire of the archer."

Take care of the bow and it will serve you well. Use it with right intentions and respect its power. Mistakes are never the fault of the bow. They are the fault of the archer, either by lack of care or intent. The same holds true when choosing a bow. If the bow is an extension of the archer it must be well-matched and feel responsive to the archer's touch. A mismatched bow will mask the archer’s skill. Try several before deciding to be sure you’re making the right choice.

"The arrow is the intention. It is what unites the strength of the bow with the centre of the target."

Every arrow is its own lifetime; its own journey. From the moment you place your feet on the line the path stretches before you and a lifetime will pass before the next arrow can be perceived. If the journey doesn't end as you had hoped, don't think "that was a poor shot, I'm shooting so badly”. Think instead "that didn't end where I expected, what can I learn from this?" Your next arrow is a whole new journey and shouldn't be overshadowed by memories of a past which can't be altered. Don't be afraid to make mistakes: an archer can learn more from gesture repetition than from where the arrow falls. If the first arrow goes off track, don't let it change your style. Shoot the remaining arrows the same way and see what happens. Sometimes the grouping is more important than the score. When you can group all of your arrows tightly every time, the score will come.

The arrow contacts the string at a single point - the nock: the point of energy transfer and stability. All of the archer’s intent must be channeled to this point and into the arrow. A combination of knowledge, experience and instinct will inform release and guide the arrow on the proper course. The arrow must leave at the exact moment the archer, bow and target exist on the same alignment: instinct will inform when the arrow is ready to fly. Shoot with serenity and certainty. Serenity will steady your hand and certainty will define the shot.

“Once the arrow has gone, it will not come back, so it is better to interrupt a shot because the movements that led up to it were not sufficiently precise and correct, than to act carelessly, simply because the bow was fully drawn and the target was waiting.”

In addition to the bow and arrow, one mustn’t neglect the target. An open channel of communication between the archer and the target should be established and maintained throughout the whole round, not just during each end. If the target is neglected between ends then each time you pick up the bow you must reacquaint yourself with the target. Keep the relationship constant and it becomes a closer and more familiar goal.

Archery is performed as a quartet between the archer, the bow, the arrow and the target. Without any one element the end cannot be realised and the purpose it lost. To consider every aspect one facet of a single whole will introduce a fluidity and synchronicity to each movement that informs and respects the relationship and act of shooting.

"Then comes the moment when he no longer has to think what he is doing. From then on, the archer becomes his bow, his arrow and his target."

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Josie : Shooting at 2020.. Do's and Don'ts

While we’re here we might as well cover all the bases. This is by no means a definitive list but covers many things I’ve come across in my time at 2020. There are no doubt things I’ve missed, and perhaps some should be expanded upon, but for what it’s worth this is my 2020 “Do’s and Don’ts” Guideline List…

>>---->  2020 uses whistle codes on the shooting line. Please listen out for them! The safer we stay, the more shooting we can pack in.

>>----> The shooting line can get very busy: be aware of where the ends of your limbs and arrows are at all times.

>>----> Don't run with arrows. The quicker we clear the butts and get safely back behind the line the more ends we can fit in, but never compromise safety for speed!

>>----> The butt you are shooting on is your responsibility. Ensure the legs are always in the correct position.

>>----> Be respectful of other archers and their kit - this includes club equipment too!

>>----> Never distract an archer once they've started drawing.

>>----> Never nock your arrow off the shooting line.

... and some positives:

>>----> Have fun! If you're not shooting well and getting frustrated your form will deteriorate. Take a break and clear your mind.

>>----> On the other end of the scale, if you're shooting well don't let it go to your head - over-confidence will mess up concentration in exactly the same way as frustration.

>>----> Not sure about something? Ask! There are plenty of coaches and club members milling around, don't be afraid to ask questions (even if the question may seem silly - we were all beginners once).

>>----> If you're looking to purchase a new bow why not ask some of the club members if you can try theirs? Be prepared that they may not all say yes but it's worth asking.

>>----> When you're struggling with technique (as we all do at times) ask someone on the line to watch you shoot and offer comments. Better still, if they can video you on their phone that will give you plenty of information to work with. If you're anything like me you'll hate seeing yourself on film, but it really works.

Anyone else? The floor is open to bidders…

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Josie : At the forefront of a sweeping tide of history

Hi everyone, how’s the shooting going?

I thought I’d give you a bit of a clue what’s to come before we dive in. I’ll let you know how things are going with me – I have some bow upgrade work planned soon of which I’ll keep you informed, it should be quite exciting. However, I also want to share some thoughts and ideas which have helped me become a better archer over the past 8 months. If I come across something really useful I’ll pass it on. Who knows? It might just be the key you were looking for...

Technique is obviously a big thing to bear in mind, equipment is another. I’m probably not best-placed to comment on these but I doubt that’ll stop me and I hope someone will correct me if I’m wrong!

Then comes the psychology of archery which is perhaps something I can comment on. This is probably one of the most difficult hurdles, especially if you shoot in one of the busy sessions. Tricky keeping your calm rhythm when someone behind is poking you with their short-rod!

However, one can't expect to always be in a zen-like atmosphere at every shoot. I imagine competition is far from it, not to mention the added pressure of graded performance. It's up to you alone to create the perfect conditions for shooting and this can all be done from the comfort of your own head.

The beauty of archery is that it’s changed very little since the Dark Ages. The function may have evolved but the raw fundamentals remain intact. This is handy as we can safely draw on references from right the way through history and apply them to the present day. For instance, did you know that the first recurve bows were shot by the Assyrians around 1000BC? That’s not even the oldest form of archery. Have a look at some of the early archery manuals here:

http://www.archerylibrary.com/books/

The object may be different but the rest isn’t. Nice to know we don’t exist in a vacuum.

To all the new archers out there: welcome to the forefront of a sweeping tide of history! Glad you could join us…

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